Angola

4X4 RequiredWe had been warned not to underestimate Angola. It is hard, terrible hard for both man and vehicle and so we were prepared but still shocked at how hard Angola is compared to any other African country we have visited.

We crossed into Angola at Ruacana and within 200meters of the border we had done 3 u turns and were lost. There are no road signs. Finally we choose a track which seemed to be going north, the track disappeared, rocks appeared, then soft sand, then bush and so we traveled north heading for London through deepest darkest Africa, not really sure where we were or if we were in fact even on a road.

Angolan BoyFinally a village, more tracks leaving each going somewhere. We checked our paper map and the road we should be on seemed to go south and then do a loop and turn back north.

We headed south, 10km later we were back at the Namibia border not the same border crossing we had come through but another one not on the map.

Back to the village, flip a coin and choose a track, we seemed to be making progress, still heading north, our GPS doing fine and finally after 7 hours of driving we had done 90km. Time to find a place to bush camp.

Fish VendorAngola has known more wars over the past 46 years than any other African country. It is said that there are as many landmines as people in Angola. The government estimates there are 80,000 survivors of landmines explosions in the country with at least 800 deaths or serious injuries still recorded annually. The shoulders of the roads are notorious for hidden mines and we had been warned not to go off the roads onto the shoulders, but too camp on the roads. We found a track just off the road and did what we were told we camped on the track. We had a restless night and we up with the sun to start our next day in Angola.

Friendly FolkAngola has only known peace since 2002. Most Angolans have only known war and it appears they face insurmountable challenges to rebuild. However many village we past through seemed to have one new building; a school and if there was no school building, school children sat under the large trees, it seems as if education has been made a priority. Many of the children appeared desperately poor in thread bare clothing despite the cold winter weather, every woman seemed to have a baby on her back and most men seemed to carry a machete.

On our 2nd day in Angola we met up with a group from South Africa who were touring Angola with a guide (UIR Adventures). They were friendly and kindly invited us to join them bush camping that night, which we readily accepted. Marius the tour leader found a clearing in the bush and told us that we can camp on land that has been “worked, crop fields and quarries” as they are safe from landmines, which was good news as I was not that comfortable camping on the road at night.

Land Mine FlagThe following morning as we left we saw a crew of men working at clearing the side of the road we were on for landmines. It seemed to close for comfort. The roads in Angola are indescribable, everyone told us Angola has the worst roads in Africa and I would suggest perhaps the world. They even make Costa Rica's road look fabulous.

The potholes are craters large enough to swallow an entire car, and one has to stay on the road, it makes for slow progress, plenty of dust and even the best of 4X4 designed vehicles go beyond what they are made for. Angola really is hard but beautiful and the people friendly. I think we are going to fall in love with Angola

Landmine Clearing

LUBANGO

Our destination was Lubango.  This is a large bustling town, which has the distinction of being one of three cities in the world, which has a gigantic open armed statue of Christ standing guard on the mountains surrounding the city.  (The other two are Rio de Janiero and Lisbon) .The infrastructure and economy of this city and its surroundings were greatly damaged following Angola's independence in 1975 by the departure of most Portuguese settlers, by the effects of two decades of civil war, and by bombing raids by South African planes. 

Little FootWe drove into a bustling city with no map and set off to find Casper Lodge, which we had heard, had camping facilities.  Without the familiar GPS coordinates this was going to be a tough job, especially since no one spoke English and our Portuguese is non-existent.  We stopped and asked and people shook their heads, it was “non comprehendo” for all.  We pulled up to two men chatting in the road and asked if either of them knew the Casper Lodge.  They did but as they were unable to give us instructions in English, one man jumped into his car indicated for us to follow him.  We drove across the city following his car until he slowed and waved pointing us to the Casper Lodge.  We never had the opportunity to thank him as he drove straight on without stopping, so to the anonymous Angolan in Lubango our deepest thanks.  

LuandaThe camping facilities’ were very primitive and after three days of very hard driving and rough camping, we booked into a sprawling room, where we spent a luxurious night enjoying, hot running water, movies, and a good mattress.  That evening a Luandan couple introduced themselves to us, our Landcruiser having engaged their interest, they were friendly and helpful, a characteristic we found to be universal amongst the local inhabitants.

SERRA D’LEBA PASS

Lubango is located on the Leba plateau at an altitude of 1700m making it the highest cities in Angola. Our next destination was the coastal hamlet of Namibe on the Atlantic Ocean.  You head for the coast zigzagging down the impossible hairpin bends of the “Serra de Leba” to the baobab trees and bushveld below, then on into the grey, stony desert. Tom was in the passenger’s seat hanging on as I whizzed around the hairpin bends down into the valley. 

Market SellerThe Serra de Leba pass is a breathtaking ride by anyone's standards and what makes the drive even more of a thrill is the fact that you are able to travel more than 100 kilometers by road without running into the giant potholes experienced everywhere else in the country. This is due to the fact that the south-west of the country was barely been touched by the fighting that raged through most of Angola for 26 years. The south-west is one place where for a moment you can step back and contemplate something which is sometimes hard to imagine - what a peaceful Angola might look like. That afternoon we arrived in Namibe and headed south to Flamingo Lodge in the northern reaches of the Namib Desert. As we turned south, we were treated to spectacular desert canyons and fields of Welwitschia plants, which were growing everywhere, as far as the eye could see.

HEADING NORTH

Money ChangingWe headed for Luanda following the coastal road. It would take us 5 days before we would enter Luanda. We spent the first night with a fun group of fellow travelers from South African fishermen who were in search of the “big one.”

We choose to drive up the coastal route to Luanda, as there are sections, which the Chinese have repaved, and there is less traffic.  Our only concern was the difficult section, worse we were told than the infamous “Van Zyl” pass in Namibia. Just how much worse can the road get? We are both quite anxious as we headed towards this approximately 30km of track over a mountain range. First, we had to spend a night camping on the road in the bush.  We both slept so well on the side of the road. Really remote, no traffic and no people not even a cow or goat.

Road into Angola from NamibiaWe set off early as we were anxious to get to the bad road and get through it safely. We estimated it was about 20km ahead. It was not long before we knew that we were definitely on a bad road, why they even call it a road beats me. It is simple mountain track meant I am sure for mountain goats. The cruiser rocked and rolled as we crawled up the rocks and down the rocks. We stopped and reassessed as we went forward, what line would be best to take, which rocks would the cruiser manage to get up and over. At times, we just stood in silence, feeling as if we were between a rock and a hard place. However, after several hours we had finally conquered the mountain pass and in a little village, back with people we felt good.

Luanda

Luanda is a city with no stars; the sky is always hidden by the grimy, dusty air, which hangs overhead.  Rubbish litters the streets, sewers bubble to the surface and people walk between the slow moving traffic selling their wares.  This is Luanda where 5 million live; in a city originally built for 500,000.  Faces stare through the car window do I need a tie, more toilet paper, or perhaps a set of cutlery how about some coat hangers?  Women wander between the cars with colourful round buckets balancing on their heads, bananas piled high, and sandals in neatly stacked towers, fish shinning, fresh apples, and oranges.  Babies strapped on their backs their head turned to the side as they are tightly wrapped up against their mothers, they do not cry, they watch quietly or sleep, this is their life it is all they know.

Road to the CongoAngola has cheap, safe and accessible oil but it does not have cheap, safe or accessible drinking water.  A country with excess oil and a wealth of diamonds and yet the majority of Angolans have no or limited access to clean drinking water. It is a shame.

Yet despite their grinding lives, there is hope and rather than turn to crime they eek out a living with what little they have. There are the super rich living in Luanda but they live their lives behind walls, in secure communities, which not even a tourist can get a glimpse of. They drive their fancy Hummers, Land Cruisers, BMWs, and Mercedes down the streets where the hawkers sell their wares.  Nothing is ordinary in Angola.

School GirlWe spent 9 days in Luanda, getting visas, exploring Luanda on foot and by car, and meeting wonderful people. The Honorary Canadian Ambassador Alan and his wife Julia were amazing kind and generous to us during our stay in Luanda. We are truly indebted to them.  Once we had all our visa, we decided that finally it was time for us to head north for the Democratic Republic of Congo.  We planned to reach N’Zeto on the first day and Noqui/Matadi border via Tomboco on the 2nd day.

THE ROAD NORTH TO CONGO

Tom seems in a hurry as if he wants to get this all over with. He packs the car and after farewells to Julia, Allan and Rebecca we leave. I drive Tom follows us on the GPS and Tracks4Africa. We move slowly and into one of Africa’s largest slums. It is a chaotic, filthy world. Traffic moves, then it does not we are trapped in a quagmire of people, taxis, trucks and rubbish as far as the eye can see.  Two hours and 11 km later, we joined the road leading from the center of Luanda to Cacuaca.

Showing the crowdAngola does not have roads it has potholes and tracks the journey is 8 hours to N’Zeto. We do not measure distance in kilometers we measure it in time. We drive always staying on the tracks: red flags gently flutter alongside the road reminding us of the danger of landmines.  We pass the largest land mine clearing operation we have seen.  The guns may be silent but the war continues for those who live in the rural Angola.

We only stop to make ourselves some coffee. A car stops in the shadow alongside us. Their car is overheating and they wait while the steam pours free of the radiator and we watch. Words are few as they do not speak English. It is not culture, race or religion that separates us it is the ability to communicate. A snake skin which has been shed lies besides the road. It was a very large snake.

CHINESE ROADS

We arrived in N’Zeto at about 1800 hours. The dusty, potholed Boulevard lined with lamp posts from another era, the remains of battle scarred buildings stand empty with weeds and trees there current occupants.  Children squeal and play in the dirt, alongside the chickens a black pig and a skinny do g.  Broken wrecks their playground.

Street VendorWe ask for “Pastor Pedro Manual, egresis Evangelica” they simply shake their heads. Allan told us everybody in the village knows him, just ask.  Finally someone who speaks English, no he does not know the pastor as he is a traveler. He turns to the group an elderly women waves her arms in a direction.  There is much discussion and more waving of arms. He climbs into our car he will direct us. Further along we arrive at the market and he climbs out the car and approaches another group. We watch, they are shaking their heads we hear “Nao” No they do not know him.  A curious man approaches us and we ask him “Pastor Pedro Manual” a broad smile as he replies, “Sim egresis Evangelic.” He knows him; Tom leaps out the car and brings the men together. They talk and heads nod and then they leave telling us they will be back. When they return the man says his daughter will take us to Pastor Pedro. A young girl climbs into the car. She is wearing a tattered skirt with faded flowers; it has no hem and is torn. It once was white and beautiful.

A strange girl she only points and makes a grunting sound or are those word?  She watches the road as if we did not exit; she never looks at us she simply speaks to the window. She does not know and we stop and ask another man, he informs us that Pastor Pedro Manual is in Abriz, he is not in town.  He tells the girl we are now looking for a hotel and tells her where to take us. She is sullen but takes us to a large pink building it is not a hotel. Finally a man tells us where to find a hotel and we book in. We are exhausted. 

Temporary bridge next to destroyed bridgeWe can’t believe our luck and wonder when he tells us he has one room only, the others are occupied. We are alone at the hotel there are no other cars, and no water. Water is only available after 6pm. We discover who lives in the other rooms it is the Chinese road builders. I chat to Ting from Beijing who has only been in Angola 2 months and does not like it. He shows me a picture of his 6 year old daughter on this cell phone and tells me he has to stay in Angola for 3 years.  It will take 3 years to build the road from N’Zeto to M’Wanza Congo the provincial capital a total of 400km.

NOT SAFE COBRAS

Bread and jam for breakfast before we leave. The Chinese men are changing their tyre, car repairs and punctures are a daily grind for many who travel these roads. 

Welwitschia PlantWe left the tired and battle scared town and headed for Tomboca.  The road was appalling, potholes as deep as 3-4 feet. Deep enough to hit the back fender of the cruiser when driving up out the pothole. Where there were no potholes, mounds of sand resembling ski moguls put our driving skills to the test.

We left at 7:30 am and arrived at Noqui 12 hours later.  The countryside is lovely although a lot of it is on fire.  Villages more established. Roads like mogul tracks through forests, a large blue snake slithers across the road.

We had hoped to reach Noqui in the daylight but the roads were so bad we broke our rule and drove in the dark.  The roads were so narrow and with many fires we would have had to take turns sleeping in case we were caught up in a fire. It was surreal driving in the pitch dark on the worst of tracks through northern Angola heading for the DRC. Every kilometer never seemed to end, they were the longest km we had ever driven.

Sera de Leba PassWe arrive in Noqui in the darkness of night. A few lights and we head for a “hotel” but on inspection, it was decided it would be safer to find a camping spot. We drove on heading for the border post when we spot a hospital. We ask if we can camp in the hospital grounds. The English speaking Cuban doctor explains it is “No safe, no safe, too many cobras.” We reassure them we would be safe on the tent on the top of the car and they agree we can stay.  Just a cobra I thought as I drifted off to sleep. I hope they don’t climb up on car tops.  Tomorrow we cross the border.

POTHOLE GRADING ACCORDING TO JANET

Grade 1	Can easily be hit at 30km/hr. No pain, no cursing required
Grade 2	Shin deep, it hurts but not too bad
Grade 3	Knee deep but no sharp edges. Starting to hurt
Grade 4	Thigh deep, sharp edges, damages Land Rovers. Really hurting now, cursing allowed
Grade 5	Waist deep, sharp edges, requires sport bra, damages Land Cruisers. Pain unbearable.

ANGOLA GPS COORDINATES

Location	GPS	What is it	Comment
N of Naulila	S16 9.733 E14 45.352	Bush campsite	1st night dirt track leaving main road. Not disturbed by anyone. Under tree
Near Dongue	S15 26.349 E14 03.750	Bush camp	In a worked field, just off main road. Visited by locals, but left alone
Lubango	S14 55.925 E13 28.132	Casper Lodge campsite	Camp site very basic, really just a lot behind the hotel
S of Namibe	S15 13.191 E12 01.189	Flamingo Campsite	Great location and campsite but not cheap.
Dry river bed towards Flamingo Pt.	S15 13.191 E12 01.189	Huge Welwitschia plant	Really worth seeing.  It is huge.
N. of Bentiaba	S14 10.623 E12 21.962	Bush camp	Beach campsite. Difficult to get to, make sure stay on tracks, as heard area known for many landmines
N. of Lucira	S13 23.201 E12 43.219	Bush camp	Very difficult 4X4 road. Fantastic campsite, no one around.
South pt of track	S13 22.048 E12 50.432	Mountain pass	These are estimate of the south and north starting pts for the pass. Good 4X4 driving skills needed. Will need low range.
North pt of track	S13 20.381 E12 56.088
S of Sumbe	S11 49.396 E13 56.475	Bush camp	Track just 100m off main road, under tree.
Luanda	S8 47.961 E13 13.413	Parking lot campsite	Clube Nautico allows camping in parking lot.  Can use club toilets during when during day and evening.  Very basic, it is a parking lot and not a campsite
N’Zeto	S7 13.897 E12 51.732	Hotel	Basic but clean, water not always available.
Noqui Hospital grounds	S5 51.823 E13 25.975	Bush camp	Not a campsite but they let us park on ground.  No toilet facilities.