Ghana

MORE FAMILIAR TERRITORY

Elima Castle
The original Ghanaian kingdom was a large and powerful state, which hundreds of years ago spread out over a large portion of West Africa. Today Ghana is only a small remnant of its former size, its current configuration resulting from its British colonial history. It has a unique place in history however; since it was the first African colony to gain its independence (in 1956) under the leadership of its charismatic president Nkrumah.

The Lonely Planet guide describes Ghana as "Africa for beginners". It has a relatively good infrastructure, friendly people, a developed tourist infrastructure and great beaches. Even better for us, it is the first country on our current trip that is English speaking. This means that we can ask questions, discuss issues, read the papers, and watch TV, all that stuff we have not been able to do since departing Canada almost 3 months ago.

Cape Coast
We crossed into Ghana with no problems and headed south for the coast. The usual African scenes greeted us, what was new was the school children in neat school uniforms walking alongside the road. Roadside shops selling all the common goods as well as elaborate coffins and special fashion wear for funerals, which we discovered are big events in Ghana. There were also children selling large cane rats on side of road which are apparently quite tasty and nutritious, we also saw snakes, a monkey and a duiker for sale. Numerous uncompleted concrete buildings scatter the countryside, evidence of the ongoing challenges of land reform, land title and bad budgeting issues.

Small privately owned dangerous and toxic gold mining and panning operations as well as large corporate operations give testament to the famous historic Ghanaian gold deposits which fueled both the early Arabic and European interest in this area. Recently significant oil has been discovered offshore. They are all hoping that this will be a blessing and not the curse it has been in neighboring Nigeria.

BOABENG FIEMA MONKEY SANCTUARY

Kakum National Park
Tucked away in a semi deciduous forest are the villages of Boabeng and Fiema, a region where the local villagers believe monkeys are sacred. The monkeys, Lowe's Mona and Colobus, live in the small forest nearby and are also seen around the villages. Because they are sacred they are protected, everywhere else they have been hunted to extinction. In fact here they even have a monkey cemetery in a sacred grove where each individual has its own headstone where its name and lifespan has been carefully recorded. On arriving we were greeted by our guide Robert, who was wearing a Forzani's Mothers Day Run T-shirt from Calgary, small world. He informed us that three students from the University of Calgary were doing research in the area and had given him the shirt.

We wandered into the forest and through the village, watching the Mona monkeys scampering through the trees, and taking in the lush vegetation, a spectacular contrast from the sandy deserts we had spent weeks just crossing.

COUNT YOUR BLESSINGS

Operation Hand in Hand Children's Home
We headed for a home for mentally handicapped children located behind the hospital in the village of Nkoranza. The children's home was started by a Dutch physician some 30 years ago and today is the home for over 50 children. It was inspirational to watch the children sing and play in their surroundings who might otherwise be homeless. The Brong-Anafo (Bono) people believe that these children are the result of a women being raped by a water spirit and the "water children" are half spirit and half human. Often these children are abandoned; many left at the river edge so that they may return to the water. The project is financed by the crafts the children make, running a successful internet cafe in the village and acquiring sponsorships for the children. Most of the children are sponsored by families in the Netherlands but they still need more sponsors.

For more information on Operation Hand in Hand go to www.operationhandinhand.nl

GOLDEN BEACHES AND PILES OF RUBBISH

Kintampo Falls
After a two day journey we reached the beautiful palm fringed golden beaches along the coast. and headed for Green Turtle Lodge where planned to camp for several days. It was bliss to be camped on the beach in the shade of the palm trees, with the waves washing up to us. Tom swam in the warm waters but because of the very strong undercurrent I did not venture in.

We decided to take a pirogue trip through the mangrove in the village next door. We arrived at the launching spot in the nearby village which was piled high with rubbish and smelt pretty awful. Men were bathing in the river and children washing dishes amongst the rubbish and I was nervous about walking through the water to the canoe, wondering what little critters I may pick up or what other disgusting thing I might touch. After settling into the narrow unstable canoe the guides paddled, stopping regularly to bail the water out from the canoe. We were fortunate to see kingfisher birds, herons, egrets and hundreds of colourful crabs in the trees. However the mangroves are in pretty bad shape, strong evidence as to the enormous environmental challenges Africa is facing.

Elima Harbour
Before leaving we sat for a moment watching the thunderous surf crashing ashore and reflected on the interesting 10,000kms we had driven since we left the Mediterranean in Morocco. Now we turn East.

SLAVE TRADE

The coast of Ghana has several castles from which millions of African slaves were shipped to the America’s. It is estimated between 12-20 million men, women and children were transported across the Atlantic Ocean, many dying on route. We decided to visit Elmina Castle (Castle of St. George) the oldest European building in Sub Sahara Africa, which was started in 1482 by the Portuguese although it has gone through many rebuilds and been extended over the years. We arrived at the village of Elmina which is one of the most colourful and lively fishing village we have yet encountered. Filled with color, noise and smells, flying flags on fishing boats from Canada to Israel, it buzzed with life.

Canadian High Commissioners Gardens in Accra
We took a tour of the castle one of the best guided tours we have had anywhere in Africa. It is not easy to listen to the accounts of the pain and agony the captives endured waiting in the dark, dank dungeons for their fate. All the European nations participated in some form or other. We later visited the Cape Coast Castle which was the largest slave holding site in the world. Here more captives were stored in cramped dungeons before making their fateful voyage across the ocean. We walked to the Door of No Return in silence wondering how man can be so cruel to each other. The emotions such visits bring up linger for days while one’s mind grapples with the stark facts and figures. The slave trade is a shameful scar in the history of mankind.

A great read is, "A Book of Negroes" by Lawrence Hill.

KAKUM NATIONAL PARK

Boageng Fiema Monkey Sanctuary
Only a short 50 years ago West Africa was the home to one of the largest tropical rain forests on the planet. Desertification in the north combined with extensive logging has ensured that today there are only small isolated patches of virgin rainforest remaining. Kakum National Park is one such patch of protected semi-deciduous rain forest located in central Ghana where one can explore all its dimensions by going on a canopy walk. This is a 350m long wood and rope walkway suspended 40m above the forest floor, between 7 trees each with a viewing platform. I was so pleased that we did this attraction early on in the day, before the crowds arrived, so that I could have the walkway to myself. Not even Tom was allowed on the suspended rope walkway when I was on it, as he made it sway way too much for my liking. Whilst this is not for those with a fear of heights or swinging on a rope, the view is amazing. I never imagined that so many beautiful butterflies lived so high off the ground.

On the way back to the visitors centre we stopped to purchases a coco bean from one of the African vendors. He sliced it open with his machete and white gleaming buttery seeds were exposed. We sucked the succulent juicy meat from the pits and enjoyed the refreshing sweet taste. Chocolate is made from this plant, but what we tasted bore no resemblance, it was far nicer.

USA ELECTIONS IN AFRICA

Reader at Kathy Knowles Library
We will remember Accra for many things but perhaps the most amazing memory will be watching Obama win the elections from the continent of Africa. Huddled around the TV, drinking coffee in the early hours of the morning with Heather and Darren we watched the world and especially Africa’s response to Obama becoming the USA President Elect. Africans were ecstatic with many believing he will bring good things to Africa and its people. Obama mania is alive and well in Africa, and I quote a news broadcaster who stated later that the black people finally had a "black man in charge of the world."

But Accra will also be remembered for the kindness and generosity of the Canadian High Commissioner Darren and this wife Heather who while we waited for our Nigerian visas. spoilt us with delicious food, good wine and great company. We visited one of Kathy Knowles libraries. Kathy Knowles is a Canadian who writes children’s books and has set up several libraries in Ghana.

We accompanied Heather and Darren to a maternity hospital where they made a donation of supplies. We were given a tour of the units and met some new moms and their babies. Conditions are very basic, but the nurses friendly and very welcoming to us.

Heather and Janet at Melbourne Cup
We attended a fund raising event raising money for mosquito nets, put on by the Australian High Commissioner. The event was the Melbourne Cup, the most famous horse race in Australia and both Heather and I had to wear a fancy hat. I dug out my hat from the cruiser and Heather decorated hers with Canadian maple leaves and we were off to the races. We ate and danced the night away, so much so that Tom had shin splints the following day, too many long hours of driving and sitting still in a car.

We actually met Heather and Darren through the director of USAID in Ghana who we met in a parking lot. Bob invited us his home for a USAID party where we all played lawn bowls. Tom and I had never played before so our team lost but we had fun and met some wonderful and interesting people.

LURCHING FROM POTHOLE TO POTHOLE

Mangrove Swamp
After we picked up our Nigerian visas we headed towards Akosombo Dam on the Volta River. The dam wall is constructed of rock and clay (earthquake resistant), behind which is the most expansive artificial lake in the world, covering roughly 850,000ha, it is 400km long and has a shore line measuring almost 5000km. Our assumption that we could cover the short 70kms to the dam by nightfall was way out and we knew we were in trouble when the main road leaving Accra was closed with several detours all going off in different directions and no sign posts. The road we choose deteriorated the further we got from Accra until we were lurching from one pothole to the next pothole. A thunderstorm rolled in and it began to get dark when we finally decided it was time to stop for the night as we were not going to make the dam that day. We had driven a total 40km, it had taken us 2 hours and as the crow flies we were probably 10km from where we left Accra. But we were safe! The following day the sun broke through and After visiting the dam we headed towards Togo via the Volta region which was wonderfully green and lush, with villages nestled against the mountains, with some of the prettiest scenery we had seen in Ghana. Our next stop was the Wli Waterfalls, the highest waterfalls in West Africa.

SNAKE AND BATS

Wli Waterfalls
It was late in the afternoon before we reached the Wli waterfalls. We hired a guide and set off for the 40 minute walk to the falls. It is a scenic walk and I was enjoying the fresh air, when suddenly our guide who was walking ahead of me began screaming and jumped back towards me, landing into my arms thereby preventing me from moving. I watched in horror as a green mamba slithered towards my foot. It was all over in seconds, but we clung to each other wondering where the snake had gone, not daring to move. Slowly we tentatively separated, the guide initially too afraid to move on. We had just encountered one of the worlds most venomous snakes. We were extremely fortunate that it did not strike at either of us but ironically we were also incredible lucky to have seen this elusive snake which lives in the trees and only comes down to the ground at dusk to seek its prey. The 40m high cascade of water was amazing but even more amazing are the estimated half a million bats that hang from the horse shoe shaped cliff. My luck was holding and we were treated to a spectacular show as the bats decided to take to the sky, hundreds of thousands of bats circled above us, a wonderful and memorable wildlife experience.

Tomorrow we head for Togo