Exploring Colonial Cities, Guadalajara, Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende

We headed into the interior of Mexico to visit some of Mexico’s colonial cities. I just love the Spanish names of the cities and it is a great opportunity to practice my Spanish pronunciations; Guadalajara, Guanajuato, Queretaro and San Miguel de Allende.  We set up camp just outside Guadalajara and took a wild ride on the local bus into the city. Holding on for dear life in a packed standing room only bus we careered through the traffic of Mexico’s second largest city. Large speed bumps are hit at high speeds, which resulted in our arms feeling as if they were being pulled out of their sockets. The bus barely comes to rest at their designated stops and we hang onto the moving bus scrambling to get either on or off. We watch the large crucifix of Christ that hangs in the front window in front of the driver, red lights flashing on the crucifix each time the driver hit the brakes. A bus ride is the wild side of Mexico and we need faith to travel on them.

Guadalajara Cathedral

Like most Mexican cities, the center of Guadalajara is dominated by a large and impressive cathedral overlooking a lovely plaza surrounded by large shady trees. Life is bustling beneath the trees, children playing, women selling crafts, men shinning shoes and vendors selling tasty snacks. Inside the main cathedral, we watch as the locals gather around a glass case containing a statue of a young 12-year-old girl that includes her actual hands and dried blood. Known as the martyred Santa Inocencia she supposedly died protecting her virginity. Whether it is a myth or the truth is perhaps irrelevant what is more important is the belief and faith of those who prayer to her.

Saint Innocence

We stop for lunch alongside Teatro Degallodo and I have fried coconut in a salad, which was delicious. Afterward we head off to see the mural of Miguel Hidalgo painted by Jose Clemente Orozco at the Palacio De Gobierno.  Mexico has some stunning murals as after the Mexican Revolution young artists were commissioned to paint a series of public murals to spread a sense of Mexican history and culture. We gazed in awe at the stunning mural over the stairway in the Palacio De Gobierno, and began to get a sense of the immense struggle the Mexicans had in order to get their freedom.

Teatro Dellagoda

Guanajuato

The extraordinary UNESCO World Heritage city of Guanajuato is stunningly beautiful.  Colourful houses cling to the mountainside overlooking the center of the town below. The cobble roads are narrow and wind through the town center and it is definitely not a town one would want to drive in. Heading off we first went to the Regional museum of Guanajuato Alhondiga de Granaditas, which actually began its life as a massive grain storehouse. In 1810, it became a fortress for Spanish troops, it was attacked by the locals who despite being poorly armed were able to storm the fortress and kill the 300 people inside. It was the site of the first victorious struggle for Independence; however, the leaders who participated in battle were later captured and executed. Their heads were decapitated and were hung in metal cages at each corner of the fortress and left there for 10 years to discourage other independence movements. The heads remained hanging until Mexico achieved its independence, which were then taken down and put to rest under el Angel de la Independencia in Mexico City.

Guanajuato UNESCO City

Colourful Houses Cling to Mountain Side

Teatro in Guanajuato

We wandered through the narrow cobblestones alleys and roads, exploring the city. It is full of romance, with balcony of the houses almost touching each other in Callejon Del Beso (Alley of the Kiss); children played with balloons tied to their legs in the plaza each trying to burst the other ones balloon, a musician serenaded us as we ate our lunch in the shadow of the Basilica of Guanajuato.  We fell in love with this city, taking a ride up the funicular up the hillside we arrived at the top and gazed over the splash of colourful houses, cathedrals and plazas below in the valley and up the hillside. It truly is a city worth visiting.

Guanajuato Cathedral

Alley of Kisses

Musician Sings and Entertains Us

Bird Eyeview of Guanajuato Cathedral and Plaza

San Miguel De Allende

San Miguel de Allende is home to one of the largest American retiree communities in Mexico, in fact so many North American live here it even has its own USA consulate office.

It is not hard to see why so many North Americans choose San Miguel as their winter retreat. It is a beautiful city, with great ‘winter” climate.  We spend our time joining the locals in the evening celebrating the anniversary of the signing of the Mexican constitution (national holiday). Mariachi bands and dancers in national costumes entertain the crowds. The plaza is so alive, families are out with their children and there is a joyful and fun atmosphere. Everyone seems to be having fun. We also attend a concert at the local public library and are stunned, by the beautiful music, singing and dancing.

San Miguel de Allende Cathedral

San Miguel de Allende Locals

San Miguel Streets

We are experiencing a side of Mexico that never makes the news media, Mexicans love to party, entertain and family. The town is full of art galleries, fancy hotels, great restaurants and colourful markets; it seems to be a town that is enjoying the benefits of an influx of foreign capital. However, what shocked us the most in San Miguel was the number of old women begging on the streets. They are on every corner, in fact at the main plaza while waiting to cross the road I counted 6 old women begging. We talked to a local about this and they admitted that it is a problem, and like us, they too wondered if it was all “organized.” It is the sad side of San Miguel de Allende.

Balloon Venders

An Artists Haven

San Miguel Dancer

Swirling Dancers Having Fun

The Sad Side of San Miguel de Allende

In San Miguel, we arranged to go to Michoacán state, to see the Monarch butterflies. Every year these pretty little insects fly all the way from Canada and Northern USA each on their own, with estimates of up to 150 million arriving to winter in the forests in the mountains between Toluca and Morelia in Mexico. It is a natural phenomenon, which boggles my mind, exactly how do these tiny creatures fly over 5000km across Canada, the USA and Northern Mexico? They were here and we wanted to witness this miracle of nature.

Monarch Butterfly from Canada

We hired a guide, Rodrigo Lopes Valdes as we wanted to see the area where the some of the largest colonies of the Monarch Butterflies are located. A permit is required as the area is not open to tourists. We headed off to the El Rosario Monarch Butterfly Reserve hoping that conditions would be perfect for us to see the butterflies. The hike into the reserve and up the mountains is a grunt. It is steep and the altitude is high (3000m) so we were puffing and panting for several kilometres up the side of the mountain, but then we saw them and could not believe our eyes at what we were seeing. Millions and millions of Monarch Butterflies and the conditions were perfect. We were in butterfly heaven. I am waiting for Tom to put together his video of this magnificent feat of nature and then I will tell you all about the Monarch Butterflies.

Millions of Butterflies in Flight

Millions More at Rest

After saying a good bye to Rodrigo, we headed for Mexico City not quite sure how to tackle and explore the supposedly largest city in the world with estimates of over 20 million people. We were feeling both apprehensive and excited about seeing Mexico City and wondered what lay ahead for us.

Our guide Rodrigo Lopez Valdes was excellent and we spent two very informative days with him. His contact information is:

Rodrigo@travelian.com.mx

www.travelian.com.mx

+52-415-152-0470

+52-415-100-2798