PanAm Highway Closed Due to FARC Attacks.

We were excited to be flying back into Medellin, but as we drove from the airport to Medellin city in a cab, we knew something was different. We looked at each other and agreed something had to have happened since we were last in Medellin since the roadways were now full of military personnel and police.

We soon heard the unsettling news; there had been a FARC attack north of Medellin on the PanAm highway. In fact, the highway between Cartagena and Medellin was closed while a search for the perpetrators of this horrific crime was conducted. This was the very road we drove to Medellin when we were unable to store our truck in Cartagena.  We were so disappointed at that time, now however we could not have felt more relieved, at least we had passed the high-risk area. However the locals of Medellin were rattled and we sought their advice about proceeding south on the PanAm highway, which would take us across and through some troubled spots. We reviewed the Canadian Embassy advisory and it warned against any travel through these areas.  It seemed that there was an increase in FARC activity since we were last here just a month ago.

Locals Traveling the PANAM HIGHWAY

It is always a judgement call when faced with having to travel routes that are considered risky. We have had to make this type of decision before in Angola with landmines: in the Congo following riots and in Nigeria with kidnappings of foreigners. These are never easy decisions. We always follow the advice of locals so we decided to proceed, driving only during daylight, starting early on the road and getting off early. If we do not see any oncoming vehicles for 15 minutes, we will pull over and ask if it is safe to proceed as there maybe a roadblock ahead. No off road camping, we stay in hotels and the best are the ones that the truckers stay.

Driving PanAm Highway South of Medellin

Reason for Security Measures in Colombia

We left Medellin and headed south. The road was indeed full of traffic especially trucks heading in both directions. There were multiply military and police checkpoints most waved us through. When we were stopped, they were incredible friendly and wished us a safe journey telling us it was safe to proceed.

Valleys and Rivers

We were amazed at how beautiful Colombia is. Colombia is one of the most stunning places we have visited on this journey. We passed through mountains, valleys, rivers and waterfalls, we saw local farmers working in the fields high up on the hills, and large fluffy clouds hung over the mountains. Little villages seemed to cling to the edge of cliffs. I decided all Colombians must have a good head for heights.

Mountain Passes on road south

Our first night on the road we watched a traffic hold up that went on for hours and stretched for miles. There had been a bus crash just a few kilometres from our hotel. It happened during day light and traffic was still not moving when we went to bed at 9:30pm, another good reason not to travel at night.

Tom watching traffic holdup after accident

After 3 days of driving, we arrived near the Ecuador border. We pulled into an Esso station still in Colombia. We asked about rooms, yes they had them. How long would we need a room he inquired? When we told him until the following morning around 8am, he shook his head and said that would be much too expensive for us. We said we would pay and even asked for his “grande” room, which set us back a full $10.00! Juan an Ecuadorian trucker joined us for supper; we shared beers and stories and afterwards headed for bed. We both slept well.

Pulled off for the night at trucker stop

The following morning before we left Colombia, we made a detour to see the Santuario las Lajas, and although shrouded in fog it was spectacular sight.  It is a basilica church built between 1916 and 1949 with donations from local believers.

Las Lajas Colombia

Las Lajas in the Mist

We arrived at the border and with no fuss; we were stamped out of Colombia. We arrived to busloads of passengers, it was fun chaos even the border officials could not contain their laughter. Nobody was upset, and it was a good introduction to Ecuador.