South Africa

Cape to Cairo

 

 

ARRIVAL

September 14th our departure day had arrived. Luggage was packed into the car and finally it was time to head for the airport. At the airport, we checked in our five bags paying extra for the excess bag. Our hand luggage was limited to 4 pieces, yet we had seven pieces of hand luggage needing to be checked through customs. The stunned custom officers just watched in amazement as we piled all the bags onto the conveyor belt that took the bags through x-rays. Not a word was spoken or an article checked by the custom officers, we were through and on our way.

The trip via London and to Johannesburg was 30 hours. We arrived in Johannesburg September 16, very jet lagged and tired. After 2 days of sleep and rest in Johannesburg, we began to feel normal again.

Too Much Luggage

We arrive in Johannesburg on the September 16, almost a year after we made the decision to “travel across Africa.” Our journey began with the planning and preparation, a task we hugely underestimated, but thoroughly enjoyed. Our learning curve was immense, an incredible journey in and of itself.

Once in Johannesburg, our first line of business will be to collect our land cruiser, which will be our home for the next 8 months. Monday morning we set off to actually see the Land Cruiser. Finally, we had the opportunity to view the cruiser we had spent months and days searching for on the internet. When we saw the cruiser, the trip began to start feeling real. The reality of all the things we still needed to do or purchase before we would be ready to leave South Africa began set in.

Meeting Chinook

Tom will be attending the International World Petroleum Congress in Johannesburg, which will be held September 26 to the 28th after which, we will head for Cape Town. We will be driving to Cape Town via Gabarones in Botswana. This detour is necessary because our Landcruiser is a Botswana registered vehicle and we therefore have to register it in our name in Botswana.

Our real South to North Africa overland journey will begin at Cape Agulhas, the southern most tip of Africa, which is about 200km to the southeast of Cape Town. It is where the cold Atlantic Ocean meets the warm Indian Ocean. It is a barren flat rocky peninsula with a lighthouse, and little else to see, and the start of our estimated 25,000km trip to Cap Blanc, Tunisia.

Moving Slowly

APARTHEID MUSEUM

With the tragedy of the past, the struggles and challenges of the present, there is strong hope for the future of South Africa. Within 11 years, it has achieved a multiracial democratic society with a constitution that guarantees equality more extensive than anywhere in the world. A country has achieved freedom without destroying the nation.

The parking lots, a hive of activities filled with buses and schoolchildren. The walkway to the entrance is graced by seven tall pillars, each pillar representing a fundamental value of the constitution, “Democracy, equality, reconciliation, diversity, responsibility, respect, and freedom.”

Magic of a LCD Screen

We walked past the pillars, “European only” benches, and shady trees and through the separated entrances, a “whites only” and another for “blacks only” into the museum. The displays took us on a journey through the history of South Africa, from the time of the first indigenous black people to the arrival of the white settlers, the wars and disputes and the beginning of apartheid.

Apartheid is shown as it was, through photos, writings, posters and children’s drawings and writings; a moving experience. The triumph and celebrations of the overthrow of the apartheid regime, to the start of building of a new nation.

It is a nation that “reflects the triumph of freedom and human dignity over oppression and humiliation.” Nelson Mandela.

A simple yet powerful message that, “Apartheid is now where it belongs in a museum”

Safe

“These methods have been reported in Johannesburg as being used by the Race Classification Board to determine if a man is a native or coloured (mixed race). A soccer player is a native; a rugby player is a coloured. A high bed is a coloured; a low bed is a native.” (Cape Times 21/7/1956)

“A white person is one who in appearance is or who is generally accepted as, a white person, but does not include a person who, although in appearance obviously a white person, is generally accepted as a coloured person.

A Native is a person who is or is generally accepted as a member of any aboriginal race or tribe of Africa.

A coloured person is a person who is not a white person or a native” (From the Population Registration Act, 1950)

With the release of Nelson Mandela in 1990 and the first South African democratic elections in 1994, the apartheid regime finally ended. Mandela was found guilty and sent to Robben Island. It was almost 30 years exactly to the day.

Secure

A LABOUR OF LOVE

We traveled south of Johannesburg on the main road for several kilometers before we turned off and onto a dusty road. After several kilometers through the veld (field), we arrived at an unofficial orphanage. Matshabalala, an exuberant woman with a wide friendly smile, greeted us. Surrounding her were 38 children, excited by the arrival of visitors.

The earth was dusty, a large tree providing shade to sleeping dogs and wandering chickens. It was desolate except for several shacks. There was no running water or electricity. It was a squatter camp, home to an amazing woman and the 38 orphans. To the children, orphaned by AIDS, violence or simply abandoned, this is their home and their mom. It is also an illegal squatter camp.

Hope

With unemployment high, high rates of AIDS and limited resources, many resort to opening illegal and unlicensed orphanages. Matshabalala cannot apply for funding but is compassionate, caring, and determined not to have her “children removed.”

The time spent with Matshabalala and the children was very special and very humbling. All the children wanted their photos taken; “Shoot, shoot” they cried and then with shouts of delight, gathered around the LCD of the camera to see themselves.

The children and Matshabalala are a testament to the spirit of survival and human strength.

A STORY OF AIDS

Together

HIV and AIDS affect millions of South Africans. The lack of resources, funding and trained health care professionals has resulted innovative and creative solutions. We had the opportunity to visit a Hospice Centre, a community based orphanage and a primary health care clinic, all located just outside of Johannesburg. It was here that we began to understand the some of the difficulties and challenges Africa faces in treating and caring for people with HIV/AIDS.

Only a few patients with HIVAIDS are eligible or able to receive anti retroviral medication and treatment. The reasons are multiple and complex. Many patients are illiterate and cannot read the labels on the medication bottles or instructions; neither can they read a calendar, so they fail to keep appointments. They either do not own a watch or are unable to tell the time therefore they do not take the medication at the correct times. Many are malnourished making “healing” very difficult. Transportation is a major barrier; not having a car or too weak to walk the long distances many are unable to get to the health care clinics. With poverty comes substance abuse, causing poor liver function, which excludes them from taking the anti retroviral medication. Many simply refused to be tested.

Trust

I asked the nurse responsible for the community health care district, “How do patients qualify for getting into the HIV/AIDS medication program?

“We have limited resources and medications,” she explained, “so it is so important that the patients who are most likely to benefit from the medications receive them. Patients who are pregnant, have TB or who have a sexually transmitted disease are referred for counseling”

The counselors are volunteers who are given a 4-week course on HIV/AIDS. These counselors do the pre-test and post-test counseling. They test the patients for HIV, which is a simple finger prick blood and the results are immediate. The counselors then tell the patient if they are positive or negative.

Looking at Children's Drawings and Writings

She continued, “If the patient wants further assessment, an appointment is made for them to be seen at the clinic. If they fail to keep the appointments, they do not get the prescribed anti-retroviral medication, as they are unable to comply with all the instructions. If they fail to take the medication at the exactly the correct time, the treatment will not work. It will fail so there is no point, but things are improving so the future is hopeful.”

HIGH - SPEED POLICE

Great news, we finally got our car insured. We are insured through Campbell and Irving, London UK. Getting vehicle insurance across the whole of Africa was no easy feat; it took Tom hours of phoning around the globe until we finally had insurance in place. It was now time to leave for Cape Town.

The New Generation

Johannesburg drivers are the worst in the world and they have the statistics to support it. Learning to drive a right hand drive and heavy vehicle was an interesting experience. Despite rules of the roads and speed limits, none were obeyed by the other drivers, and it was every man for himself. While driving it felt as if we were caught up in the middle of a high-speed police chase. Cars and trucks whizzed past us at breakneck speed, weaving their way around, passing us on either side. Driving in the outside lane didn’t help either, because it only meant they would pass us by driving on the sidewalk. We saw more serious car accidents in two weeks in Johannesburg than we have seen in 26 years of living in Canada. The death toll on the roads in South Africa must be one of the highest in the world. We could not wait to leave Johannesburg.

IT’S A LONG WAY TO CAIRO

High Speed

We packed the Land Cruiser and were off on our first trip, and my first time behind the steering wheel. With the ignition turned on, I put it into reverse, pushed down on the accelerator, and we did not move.

“Give it gas, it is a heavy vehicle” Tom advised. “I am, I am” I replied.

After several attempts of going nowhere, we switched drivers. I watched his every move and then pointing at the foot brake exclaimed, “Oh I thought that was the accelerator; no wonder we never moved. I was attempting to accelerate using the brake.”

Back in the drivers seat I now felt confident, until all the alarms went off. With lights flashing and the sirens blaring, the Cruiser was coming to a stop.

“Push the anti-hijacking switch, find it find it, before the Cruiser is immobilized!” yelled Tom.

After much confusion and scrambling, pushing all switches I could find, the siren silenced and the lights stopped flashing. We had covered 200 meters and it had taken us 15 minutes. It is going to be a long drive to Cairo.

Tom Taking a Rest

LONG HAUL TRAVEL

Every year the ringed plover flies more than 10,000 km from Siberia to the Western Cape. We had only 2000km to drive before we would arrive in the West Cape and Cape Town. Packing the vehicle proved an interesting case of negotiation between Tom and me. To say the vehicle was packed is an understatement. Despite what Tom says, we have brought far too much “stuff.”

Early Monday (October 4), we left Johannesburg heading west towards Botswana where we had to change the car registration into our names. We decided to camp just outside Botswana and go across the border first thing in the morning. We pulled into a campsite; choosing a lovely site under a tree, where we prepared to pitch the tent. I climbed onto the roof of the Cruiser as Tom set about undoing all the tent ties. Glancing up, I said to Tom, “This is not going to work. We did not take into consideration trees have branches and there is no way we can put up the tent.”

Learning the Ropes

An hour later in a new site we finally had the tent set up and ready. It was time for supper and we were hungry. We went to the dining room at the campsite. It was a surreal experience.

Afrikaner republicanism, built on a platform of opposition to the British connection and the English-speaking people, founded a secretive organization called the Boederbond. The Boederbond was the political and economical power and force behind the apartheid philosophy of forced separation, racism and its political wing the National Party, which was in power for 36 years. Millions were victims to their brutality and we felt as if the dining room we were about to eat in represented the Boederbond world frozen in time. Perhaps one day it too will just be a museum.

Welcome to Botswana

BORDERS AND CAR REGISTRATION

The efficiency and helpfulness at the passport controls and at the Botswana Government Vehicle registrations office impressed us and we were soon heading south to Cape Town, now the official owners of Chinook (our Land Cruiser). Traveling along an almost dead straight road, we approached Kimberly, a town made famous due to the discovery of diamonds in 1867. South Africa diamond rush was the birth of the industrial South Africa, as a result of which De Beers emerged as the pre-eminent mining house, a position it still holds today. Kimberly is now past its colourful heydays and we did not stop.

Cows and donkeys wander along the highway and baboons scavenge along side, all at risk from the speeding trucks travelling between Cape Town and Botswana. However cycling along the highway in both directions are the donkey safety police, dressed smartly in uniforms and bicycle helmets. As they patrol up and down the high way, it is their responsibility to chase any animal off the road.

It must be a successful initiative, as we did not pass any dead animals.

Antarctica Winds

LAND OF THE GREAT THIRST

The Karoo is an arid semi desert region; a monotonous and vast expand of dusty flat land with the occasional hill. It is so large that it took us almost a day to pass through the Karoo. The Khoisan people (also known as Bushman) called the Karoo the “Land of Great Thirst.” Khoisan people lived here hundreds of years ago. It was remote, windy and there was not enough hardwood available to construct even the most basic things. No softwood lumber dispute here.

Today a good main road allows small communities to develop. We passed by little villages known as “dorps” and large sheep farms. Windmills, a traditional landmark dot the land, working hard to draw up what little water there is for the people, animals, and other creatures of the land.

Ostriches, the largest bird (and probably one of the stupidest) in the world roam the land, farmed for their meat, eggs and eggshells. Baboon, a menace raiding the farms, homes and stop over toilets, sat along side the road grooming each other.

Nests of the hamerkop birds, weigh
Karoo Windmilling up to 50kg hung off the telephone poles.

We arrived at Matjiesfontein and decided to stop and have a cup of tea. Built by a Scotsman named Logan, the hotel stop was the first profitable railway station, refilling steam trains. The hotel served as the dining place before dining coaches were introduced to trains. The British village is now a historical National Park in its entirety.

As we drove into Matjiesfontein, the famous Blue Train pulled into the station. Known as the Pride of Africa from the Edwardian times, it is a beautiful train restored with no expense spared. As the rich tourists disembarked for a tour of the town, Tom and I hopped onto the train asking to speak to the Train Manager. Introduced to Philemon, an elegant man with a welcoming smile he said he would be delighted to give us a tour. Truly opulent with no details spared, the passenger cabins are stylishly decorated, including a full 4 piece bathroom including a tub. At a cost of C$6000.00 per person for a 2-day ride from Cape Town to Pretoria.

Karoo Matjiesfontein

Matjiesfontein is charming; strolling along the main road, we entered the famous hotel. John, the local entertainer was playing the piano and singing. I joined him singing and we had a fun time entertaining the train folk. John looked energetic, belting out the songs until the train passenger departed and left to board the train.

Alone with John, he shared stories about Matjiesfontein and the funny questions tourist asked.

“Sometimes I think they must be pulling my leg the questions seem so ridiculous” he said as we prepared to leave.

Crossing over the Overberg mountain range, the gateway to the rest of the Cape we left the Karoo behind and dropped down into the Cape valley. There is lush greenery, rolling vineyards, delicate Fynbos, graceful curved, thatched roof historical manor houses, a stark contrast from the Karoo.

CHOCOLATE AND COFFEE, WINE

Should you ever have the opportunity to visit Cape Town, an evening at the Jinja restaurant in Castle road is highly recommended. Tucked away, a narrow passage leads to the entrance. Jinja offers an excellent and tantalizing cuisine. The ambience is relaxed and the service was excellent. A reservation is necessary.

We spent a lovely evening celebrating with friends, enjoying travel stories and great adventures. We asked the server for his wine recommendation and he suggested his “best seller” was a pinotage from the Wine Estate of Diemersfontein situated in Wellington.

Everyone is Doing It

The world rediscovered South African’ wines after sanctions were lifted with the advent of a non-racial democratic government in the 1990’s. South Africa produced predominately white wine, yet the finest quality of South African wines are the red varieties.

This pinotage is the most interesting wine, with a distinctive pleasant aroma of chocolate and coffee. A smooth taste of chocolate and coffee, it is truly a special wine and we definitely need to export this wine to Canada.

SERIOUS FREEDOM

Serious freedom in Africa calls for serious 4X4 driving and vehicle recovery skills, and we were off for our day of training. After viewing our teaching video, I was not sure I was ready for this. After the classroom instructions, we were off for our first drive. Approaching the extremely steep roads I felt a pang of nervousness and it appeared to me I would be driving up a 70% incline. Tom volunteered go first with the instructor (PG). I began to scramble up the steep road to take photos, but I found myself just sliding back down and making no progress. I was no match for the loose gravel, scree, and steepness and I had to give up trying to walk up the road. How anyone can drive a heavy loaded truck up that route, never mind me, I thought.

Zandrift

Tom did great and after several practices of driving up a steep incline and then back down again, he was ready to learn to stall on a steep hill. He did it all with ease and soon it was my turn.

“Pull the seat as far forward as you can, that will help you,” I was told. After being shown how to engage 4X4, engage the low ratio, engage the differential lock, and access the free wheeling hubs I was now ready.

Explaining more he said, “Going up such a steep incline you have to trust the Cruiser as all you will see is the sky” I also have to trust PG I thought.

Ensuring the free wheeling hubs were locked, the differentials were locked, and the car was in low ratio, I was ready. I straightened the car to face the incline, put it into first gear, took my foot off the brake and clutch, and slowly accelerated, and we approached the awful road. Jerking along PG had me stop and try again.

“Put your foot against the side of the car and gently give gas, just, tilt your foot onto the accelerator, just gently, watch where you steer and trust your Cruiser it will take you up; let it do its work.”

Trusting the Cruiser

I began the ascent gently tilting on the accelerator and watching my steering, I smiled and thought, this is cool; I am actually going up. Even when I could only see sky ahead, I felt great.

Going down was actually more frightening because I could see what was ahead and felt as if the car was going to tip onto the bull bar, but I trusted the Cruiser and followed the instructions. With a sigh of relief, I was finally on a flat surface.

Learning to how to manage stalling going up a steep slope, was difficult. There were so many things to remember.

“Put your foot on the brake, and don’t touch the clutch. This will bring the car to a complete halt. Keeping your foot on the brake slowly put the vehicle into reverse if going uphill. Now take your foot off the clutch and off the brake and you will feel the transmission taking up the strain. Now don’t touch the brake, accelerator, or clutch and turn the ignition on and trust your Cruiser; it will take you down.”

Against all driving instincts and after several attempts I finally kept my feet still, trusted the cruiser, and slowly reversed down. After a several practice runs I actually got quite good.

Blue Sky Nothing but Blue Sky

Learning to drive in deep soft sand is another story. Tom and I getting very frustrated with each other, as we each became an irritating back seat driver to one another. Perhaps by the time we actually have to drive on beach sand we will be able to do it without saying, “If you want I can stop the car, and you can walk”

“But I am only trying to help.”

THE RED GREEN SHOW TO THE RESCUE

Friday was prefect, with everything going according to plan, it was only hours before we would begin on the next stage of our journey. We had been told that the worst part of the entire Africa overland trip is the planning, and the actual journey is much easier. We could feel the excitement in the air of leaving Cape Town for Namibia the next day.

Our final task was to pick up some money from the foreign exchange bureau. Turning into the parking lot of the shopping mall there was the most deafening crash and the cruiser came to a halt.

It's All Downhill

A string of expletives from Tom followed by, “We have hit the…. excessive height warning steel bar. “ Jumping out of the cruiser and up onto the top of the Cruiser there was another string of expletives from Tom followed by, “We have ripped the roof top tent.”

We stood in stunned silence gazing at the rips in the roof top tent before we realized we could not reverse out and yet there was no other way out.

We considered letting the air in the tires out but when we reviewed this as a possibility we realized that even doing that we would not be able lower the cruiser low enough to reverse under the bar.

“How about I reverse out” I suggested, “and you climb up and hold up the steel bar.” Due to the weight of the steel bar, Tom was unable to move it enough so that I could reverse out. “Better go and get the security men to come help.” I said.

Rain Rain Go Away

Tom arrived back with security. Several men were required and together they were still unable to lift the heavy steel bar. They could only tip it up so there was enough clearance for me to reverse the Cruiser out.

Parking the Cruiser safely we made our way to the mall and the foreign exchange bureau. We had called ahead to arrange for them to have the money ready. We were informed we needed to bring our passports in order to get the money.

We sat in the packed foreign exchange bureau waiting for our turn to speak to an official. After waiting for about 20 minutes, Tom sighed and muttered softly, “I forgot to bring my passport. We will have to come back.”

We left the mall feeling dejected and miserable. A ripped roof top tent and unable to pick up money, it was not exactly a successful day. Arriving home, we unpacked and set up the tent, it was worse than we thought. With several large rips in it, the tent was no longer waterproof.

Like any good Canadian, we took the advice from the Red Green Show and got out the duct tape. With the tent now patched with duct tape we accepted that we could not expect to travel across Africa without having a few hiccups, we once again were ready to leave.

Thanks to the recommendations and advice from the Red Green Show, using duct tape had saved the day. What a marvelous invention it is.

Cape Point

PENGUINS IN DISARRAY

We drove to the most southern westerly point of Africa known as Cape Point. A wild and very windy coastline known to be the graveyard to 23 wrecks, there stands the large Cape Point Lighthouse. The national reserve of 19,150 acres is said to have more species of plants than Britain, of which the Fynbos is the most famous. We arrived at the end of the road and took the hiking trail to the top. The wind was blowing at gale force and at times, it was difficult to walk. The view obscured at time by a fast moving mist we made it to the point but did not linger. Soon we were back at the Cape Point Restaurant and ready for lunch. The meal was delicious but way to much for me I asked it to be put in a “doggie bag.”

“You must be careful” the waiter informed me, “The baboons will go for the food’.

“You shouldn’t take the food. It is too risky,” said Tom. However, it was tasty and I wanted to take it.

To reassure Tom I suggested, “You go fetch the car and I will wait here for you inside”

Not born with too much patience, I got restless, and thought Tom was taking too long. There were many tourists, buses, and cars a hive of activity surely, no baboons will come here I thought.

This is It

With food in hand, I started up the road to meet Tom. I had not gone further than perhaps 70 meters, when I glanced up to see a large male baboon making his way towards me. I turned to run, throwing the food in the other direction.

“Lady, lady” a man yelled running to retrieve my parcel for me “You have dropped something.”

“Get away from it. Run there is a large Baboon coming up behind you,” I shouted.

We both retreated a safe distance and watched as the baboon took the food, smelled it and dropped it. Obviously not interested in my vegetable leftovers he simply ambulated off.

“Whew, that was close,” said the man jokingly, and with a big smile added, “Perhaps next time before you throw away the food; ask the baboon first if he wants it.”

Tom not having witnessed my near baboon attack drove up and said, “You should have seen the large baboon walking down the road.”

Confessing about my stupidity and lack of patience and my baboon encounter, a baboon again passed us by.

“I am sure that is the same one that must have gone for you”

“Get real,” I said, “Since when are you able to identify the features of an individual baboon.”

Save the Penguins

Baboons can be very aggressive and will attack a person for food. Unlike other monkey members of the primate family, baboons have a large muzzle, giving them an “unmonkey like” appearance. The muzzle is an effective weapon; their canines are massive and their front lower premolars are sharp and used for slicing meat.

On route to the Cape National Park, we stopped to see the Jackass penguins one of the very few land breeding colonies of this southern species. They set up colonies amongst the large granite boulders, which offer, some protection to them.

To watch them swimming and playing in the water is a delight. However, once we got to the beach, there were no penguins in the water. Instead, they all stood on the beach looking very miserable and irritated, snapping at each other’s bottoms. They looked in a complete state of disarray and untidy as they shed their winter feathers. During this molting period, they lose their protection against the cold water, so are unable to enter the water and subsequently do not eat or feed during this time a period of 21 days. This explains the irritability and wretched look. So would I be if I had to go without food for 21 days.

Jackass penguins are one of the very few animals that have sex for fun and not only for procreation. In 1982, there were only two breeding pairs on the beach. Today there are about 3,600 waddling around. They must be kept busy having sex for procreation and for fun.

Coming My Way

WHITE MAN’S BURDEN

If I hear the words, “Do you know where?” once more, I will go crazy. The rule seems so simple. Put things back in the same space and in the same place. So why are we constantly searching for things? Living in a confined space requires serious organization and cooperation. We have repacked, reorganized and yet the question persists. Tom has his idea of where things should be kept and I have mine, and “never the two shall meet.” Today we will once again repack and organize. Please let it be the last time.

To date we have lost an expensive camera, which we believe was snatched by a pick-pocketer, and an expensive memory stick, which we are still arguing about as to who lost it.

The questions “Where did we have it last?” “When did we last see it?” continue. If we continue to lose things at this rate we will have nothing to pack or organize by the time we reach London.

Finally packed, we were ready to leave Cape Town and turn north. Namibia here we come.

NOTHING BETWEEN OUR FEET AND THE ANTARCTIC WIND 200C

Driving late into the evening, it grew very dark and it was eventually time to find a campsite for the night.

Seeing an accommodation sign outside Hopetown, we pulled up. Tom went into the gas station and asked if we could camp.

Too Much Stuff

“No man, we closed down the camp site many years ago; you can’t camp here” the owner replied.

“Where is the closest camping?” Tom asked.

“No man, there is no close camping but you can camp here next to the garage.”

“No man, he can’t camp there” his wife answered, “It too noisy and not safe; they can drive around the back and camp on our lawn it will be safer.”

We pitched the tent, watched by a large 200lb Boerbull watchdog. “He won’t attack you; he is friendly” the man reassured us.”

I snuggled down to sleep, with my pillow and blanket. I had made a pillow for Tom using my sweater as he forgot to bring his pillow. Throwing the duvet over us, I soon drifted off to sleep. The wind howled around and the temperature began to drop. At 3am Tom complained, “I am so cold and my feet are freezing, I can’t sleep.”

“I can share my blanket with you, but then I will need my sweater from under your head.” I said. Tom reluctantly gave me his “pillow” but eagerly took up my offer to share my blanket with him. I sat up to put my sweater on, “No wonder we are so bloomin’ cold, you forgot to close the tent door and there is nothing between your feet and the Antarctic wind which is blowing into the tent!” I exclaimed.

Resting and Reading

A ROAD LESS TRAVELLED, RICHTERSVELDT NATIONAL PARK.

The west coast of South Africa is lashed by Antarctic Ocean currents and cold winds blowing from the sea. The shore, which is sparely populated, has only a few small fishing villages along the coastland. Travelling north, we reached the area known as Namaqualand. This expansive land is arid and barren with merciless heat and scarce rainfalls. It is however famous for its spring flowers, which carpet the land, sometime each September after the brief spring rains. The landscape was unlike anything we had either seen or experienced before. The intense heat of the day casts mirages of red in the distance. The wind whipped up the dust creating an eerily moon like vista, at times even obscuring our view. The distances are enormous between stopovers and we felt truly alone.

The vast and desolate landscape stretched forever and it took us 2 days before we reached Port Nolloth, a town that controls its own futures, inhabited by rough men, gritty anglers, diamond traders, and smugglers. It has seen two booms and busts, first from copper mining then diamonds. The world moved on and Port Nolloth remained now a lonely, windswept town a remnant of a glorious past, a town on the brink of extinction where only the tough can survive.

Stopping overnight at Brandkaros we decided to stay in a little hut as the wind still blustering, had been at 126km/hour 2 days prior.

Rare Treat

The following day we drove to Richtersveldt National Park South Africa’s only true desert. The park covers 160,000 ha and is one of South Africa’s six Transfrontier Park project in development together with Namibia. Only 12 high clearance 4X4 vehicles are permitted into this pristine wilderness at any one time

We were required to register at the last stop before the entrance to the park. There we were informed that the previous week a deluge rainstorm had washed out all the tracks and only De Hoop campsite was open, and the track to De Hoop was “really bad.” The park known for tough unsophisticated tracks and South Africa’s most formidable wilderness area would be our first serious off road challenge.

The first few kilometers are gravel roads used by the mining companies, but suddenly the road ends, and we entered the park. There is no gate at the entrance to the park. You know you have reached it when the road ends and the tracks begin. Driving 4X4 in low gear with locked differential, the 43km journey the campsite took us 3 hours. The sun blazed down and the heat became almost unbearable. The first section we followed a track up a steep incline over a mountain range and after about 2 hours we dropped rapidly into the valley. Following some tracks down a dry riverbed, through deep sand and over rocks and boulders we finally arrived at the Gariep River and campsite.

Dinner

The rain had washed out both tracks and campers the previous week, but it also created a Richtersveldt rarely experienced by anyone, the miracle of tiny colourful flowers carpeting the landscape. A unique and very special experience, we felt incredible lucky.
After pitching the tent, we met the only other camper, a film crew of four making a documentary about the Gariep River.

The following days we explored the area. Hiking along the river was a real treat for the senses.

Two men from the Nama tribe who live in the Park were asked by the film crew if they could film and interview them. The Nama men agreed and supper was arranged. Two South Africans arrived latter during the day bring with them a large, very ugly catfish they had caught.

The Nama are nomadic herders. They were forced to flee north in the 1800s from southern African by South Africans after violent confrontations. There are succulent trees in the area called “half man,” so named by the Nama who say the trees look like men with an unruly mop of hair. They believe the trees are their ancestors who changed into the half man tree while fleeing north. The trees are said to look longingly south to the land they were forced to leave.

Sitting that evening under a blanket of a million stars and next to a fire, the ugly fish was prepared and cooked for everyone by the Nama.

The Road Less Travelled Richtersveldt Park

Sipping wine we listened to the Nama, men tell their stories, about their lives, families, history, and folklore. They told of the large poisonous nocturnal scorpions that lurk about, which is the reason their wives and children do not live with them. The extremely poisonous puff adder snake had bitten the one but whose life was saved by putting petrol on the bite wound. Then they told of the rains that came the week before and how it had washed out all they had. They had huddled behind the rocks terrified, watching a “river” created by the water rush down the mountains with so much force that it rushed across the Gariep River, stopping the flow of the Gariep and damming it up. Never in all their lives had they ever seen such a thing.

The following day we packed up camp and left for Namibia. The South Africans had left a bit earlier that morning than us so we were surprised after several kilometers to see their car stopped in the distance. Their car had bogged down in the deep loose sand. We had to use our vehicle recovery kit for the first time to pull them out. Because of the dangerous driving conditions, we decided to drive in convoy. Following them, we were surprised to see them drive off to the west. We checked our GPS coordinates and Tom decided they were going in the wrong direction. Spotting us not following them, they decided they were lost and returned to follow us. Finally, we all made it safely out of Richtersveldt Park leaving with wonderful memories of a truly amazing place.

TECHNOLOGY AND A GEOLOGIST

We made a decision to switch drivers every three hours. Concentration is essential, especially with the dangerous South African drivers, unfamiliar roads and driving a new vehicle on the left side of the road. Seemed like a good idea at the time.

New Friends

It was once again time to switch drivers and I got into the driver’s seat. Tom still enamored with his navigation system climbed into the passenger seat, computer on his lap that was linked to our GPS. I have to admit it is a remarkable system. Everyone who has been shown the system, even professionals working with GPS systems, is amazed.

Having a backseat driver is one thing, having a backseat driver with a sophisticated navigation system on his lap is quite another.

“You are going too fast,” said Tom.

“I am only going 87km per hour” I responded.

“The GPS is showing the speed at 92km.”

“The GPS is wrong,” I replied.

The silence lasted only for a little while as he watched the computer screen before he started again.

“Slow down you are using too much gas.”

“I am going downhill and I have my foot off the gas” I replied.

A little more time passes.

“Change gears you are going uphill.”

“No, I am not going uphill”

Campsite at Gariep River

“Yes you are. The GPS elevation shows a slight uphill elevation.”

He was not quiet for long before he said.

“Slow down, there is a sharp corner coming up in 2.3 kilometers. At this speed we should reach Gapies (our destination) in 62 minutes”

“Put that GPS off!!!”

With his eyes glued to the computer screen and mine on the road, I saw the turn off sign to Gapies and made a sharp turn to the right.

“Where are you going?” he asked.

“The sign post said to Gapies.”

“It must be wrong. The GPS says there is still 2 kilometers to the turn off.”

“Thomas.” I exclaimed, “You are supposed to be doing the navigation. Perhaps you should use an old fashion paper map and take your eyes off the screen and watch for signs.”

Driving into the little town, we soon became lost.

“Go back to the highway you must have made a mistake,” advised Tom.

Reluctantly I returned to the highway and drove the next 2 kilometers and there is was the main turn off to Gapies.

Dry River Bed

Neither of us said a word!!!

NAMIBIA

On our first day in Namibia, we stopped for lunch at Fish River Canyon, the world’s second largest canyon after the Grand Canyon. Unfortunately, all the hiking trails are closed in summer because the temperature in the canyon gets to above 50 degrees Celsius. The geology and landscape, which is dry with no vegetation is, very unlike the Grand Canyon.
That evening we camped at Quiver Tree Park. Another place certainly worth a visit.

HEADLINES, SIGNS AND NEWS

Spit for Sale Scam

One can buy anything on the black market, but spit that one had me puzzled. What would make someone want to buy someone else spit?

Tuberculosis (TB) is a major killer in Africa and in South Africa; persons with TB in South Africa receive a disability pension. The answer is quite simple. Produce a sample of spit which is positive for TB and you too are entitled to a disability pension. What will they think of next?

Technology Tool at its Best

Viagra Also Good for Animals

I was intrigued as to why Viagra was good for animals. Humankind has used many different products from shark fin to seaweed to enhance their lives. Then came Viagra and men discovered Viagra worked much better than anything they had ever tried before. The men are now switching from using animal byproducts and/or plants to taking Viagra. No longer are so many animals or plants being killed or destroyed to be used for making muti. The things scientists discover are astounding.

Good News, Whites Return from Australia

During the apartheid years, thousands of white people immigrated to Australia. So much so that an anti-apartheid political party, the Progressive Federal Party (PFP), was nicked named “Packing for Perth.”

The loss of professionals has had a significant impact on the skill pool available to the labour market and business community. Therefore, I was somewhat amazed to read a headline that the whites were returning.

“Chinook”

The article was however actually about great white sharks. Great white sharks had been tagged in South Africa by scientists who were then able to track the sharks’ movements. Surprisingly, the great white sharks had swum across the ocean to Australia and then swum back, to South Africa. This caused immense excitement amongst the great “white” fans, hence the headline news “Great News, Whites Return from Australia.”

Frog Fences

South Africa prides itself in its conservation projects, so much, so that they built a “frog fence” along the roads, where rare or endangered frogs are known to live. This is to prevent the little fellows being injured or killed while crossing the road. A frog fence is probably as rare as the frogs themselves.